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Take
2,000 classic boats, 10,000 sailors, half a million visitors, a budget
of €12m, an outstanding natural harbour complemented by a dramatic
coastline and the result is Brest 2008.
Every four years since 1992 the naval town of Brest has opened up its
harbour and navy base to classic boats from around the world. It is
probably the biggest event of its kind and the french passion for the
sea and sailing, combined with excellent organisation, produces a
unique and enthralling spectacle over six days.
The town of Brest itself is hardly pretty, having endured 164 bombing
raids in World War 2, but it is clean, efficient and the locals stand
out for the warmth of their welcome and their willingness to help and
advise. They wholeheartedly embrace the festival and are clearly proud
of the unrivalled maritime attraction that it has become.
On the water there is a program of races and 'parades of sail', that
are held in the Rade de Brest which ensures that spectators and those
on excursion boats get a close view of events. With vessels ranging
from the four masted Ukranian sail training ship,'Krusenshtern', which
is the second largest tall ship in the world to the lowliest but
lovingly restored 3m gaffer you are offered a historical and technical
masterclass of the subject of sailing about which many of us are so
passionate. Hundreds of overseas craft register and make their way from
the UK and other countries to participate. The roll call of what
could be called 'everyday classics' , is endless. With apologies to
Messieurs Jeanneau, Benneteau and others your products, excellent as
they are, don't have that, je ne sais quoi, of Laurent Giles, Maurice
Griffiths, Rossiter, South Coast One, Maurice Giles, Hillyards,
FolkBoats, and many, many more all of which are at Brest by the dozen.
If your interest spans to the leading edge racing machines, they are
given some water space as well, in the shape of several IMOCA Open 60's
and just imagine, for one minute, sailing in a small patch of
water with an Open 60, The Matthew, Penduick IV, Will - a Thames Barge,
a Brixham Trawler and a Winklebrig - all pushing for some space -
priceless.!
Shoreside for the half million visitors, there are innumerable displays
and exhibitions, ranging from recreations of a Vietnamese fishing
village to Polar and Oceanographic research vessels. Nations such as
Norway, Croatia and Madagascar all have exhibition areas where they
showcase their maritime heritage and traditions. And, I never thought I
would say this, but I actually enjoyed the Sea Shanties - I must
be getting old.!
Paradoxically, one of the highlights of Brest is the departure. This
involves 2,000 participating boats and about 500 spectator craft
sailing 30nm south to Douarnanez - in flotilla. This is the analagy if
you have never seen this spectacle. Imagine one hour after the start of
the Round the Island Race, all of the fleet have to funnel between the
cliffed shore and a tall rocky outcrop that produces a channel about
100m wide - there are two such obstacles about 1k apart - this
frenzy is watched by thousands of spectators on the cliffs and several
TV helicopters. Remarkably, despite the fact that you can practically
step from one boat to another there are very few collisions although
the tension and excitement levels is palpable. Yes - it is one of those
sailing experiences that causes the hairs to stand up on the back of
the neck in absolute wonderment.
So, that is just a little snapshot of Brest 2008; Oh, and if you ever
find youself in the town, check out a restaurant called, La Pensee
Sauvage, which is everything you could ever want from a small french
neighbourhood restaurant. It takes a bit of finding and it helps if you
like duck - but you will have a memorable and cheap dinner.
If you have a list of things you want to do before you die - I
recommend you add Brest. The next one is not for another four years
though.
Clive Hassett
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